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A few years back myself and a few friends set out to surf Westport.  We all met up at Southcenter, 6am, coffees in hand.  Standard.  One of the guys (who i’ll nickname ‘Mateo’) wasn’t feeling too well, and was sipping on some orange juice.  Figured it’d help him feel better or something.

We piled into one car and hit the road, arriving at Westport a couple hours later.  The Cove was kinda working and so were the Groins.  We split up.  Mateo and another guy at the Cove and myself and the fourth guy at the Groins.  I guess the cove wasn’t working too well since Mateo and the other bro joined us out in the line up shortly after.  The surf wasn’t bad and we all were enjoying the junky waves we were getting.  Not too many people out either which is rare.

After about a half hour i noticed Mateo paddling in.  Weird, i wonder he’s going, i thought.  Maybe another half hour later i noticed Mateo sitting on the rocks in his street clothes.  We pretty much had just started surfing, there were waves and not a lot of dudes out so why would he be bagging it already?

The three of us that remained surfed about an hour more and then called it.  The tide was high so it made for a bit of a tricky exit on the rocks at the Groins.  Right as i was getting out Mateo came over to me and excitedly said ‘dude, you gotta come check this out!’ and started (more…)