Word Hole Trauma

Have you ever been surfing, paddled out and nailed a wave immediately after reaching the lineup?  Makes ya feel like hot shiz, huh?.  “Yeah, i know what i’m doing.  I’ll take this wave right here….”  And then that’s the only wave you get for the whole session.  I hate it when that happens.  That’s what went down at Westport for me yesterday.  One wave, 2 hour session.

It wasn’t that it was packed with rippers, that rarely happens at Westport.  The waves were just super mushy.  The swell had a slight south in it, tide was pretty full….  The waves would jack, fold over and then mush out.  Zero shoulder.  I pretty much knew it was gonna be like that when i drove out there but it was pissing rain in the mountains so no sense in driving east.

Even better than a one wave/2 hour session was taking my rail to the mouth.  Stepped up, fell, board got sucked under with the breaking wave, leash retracto’d back at me and boom!  Right in the face!

I got one of them fancy surftech pop-out boards.  They’re sturdy.  You can pretty much bash em into anything and they just maintain.  Check the pic below of where it whacked me in the grill.  Somehow i managed to keep my tooth in my head but took a chunk out of the rail.  Ouchie.

Fat lip, loose tooth, bloody mess, another 1/2 hour of hunting and no waves.  But that wasn’t even the worst part.  The damn taco truck behind Safeway wasn’t open–it wasn’t even there.  I was really looking forward to a quesadilla adobada.

Happy New Year bro!

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