The Stoke After the Storm

Man, last weekend was nutz.  Some of the best surf i’ve ever had.   I’m sure a lot of people feel the same.  Saw a bunch of my friends get the _________ (pick an adjective) wave ever.  Ear to ear smile, high5’s, and a lotta stoke.

The pics i do have don’t do a bit of justice.  I was too busy to take pics.  But damn, it was good.  Every nook and crannie was working.  The farther west you got, the bigger it got.  Saw a spot or two that were unsurfable big–i.e. no cars were parked in the lots.

The weather cooperated for the most part.  I only got dropped in on once.  Got to see one friend catch a wave so far away that he was a speck on the horizon and then go zipping past me down the line.  Saw another friend botch a drop in and belly board right up a cobbly beach, board unscathed.  Totally rad.

I heard some ski areas are opening this week or something.

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