Paddle, Drop, Violence

Myself and a couple friends hit Westport last Sunday.  Or a better way to put it…Westport hit us.

The swell was something like 13 feet with a smallish interval.  Hammering.  Jetty was unsurfable, waves were breaking over the thing.  Groins was a no go.  Only spot left was the Cove. Yay!?

Managed to paddle out at rock garden…where it was only closing out.  There were shoulders, but they were moving at light speed.  Picked off the smallest wave i could, dropped, and immediately got piled drived.  Back to the beach.

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We decided to walk down to where the waves would be a little more “mellow”.  Walked past the main peak that was barreling right.  Saw a few dudes get slightly hunched, 3 sec barrels.  So sic.  But i wasn’t even gonna step to that wave.  A little farther….

Spent the majority of the time right in front of the main parking and a little more to lookers left.  Despite the wind, waves were pretty clean, smaller, and really fast.   I picked off a few rights and made it down the line for a couple seconds then caught some savage beatings.  Effing violent.  I just rolled into a little bitch-ball everytime.

Surfed there for a couple hours or so.  Eventually the tide shifted and it got a bit mellower.  But it was pretty much the same story every time.  Paddle, drop, violence.

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After i was outta my suit, i was chilling at the truck and started yapping it up with some girl parked next to me.  She was saying how she was excited to go out but it was kinda big.  I mentioned how i’d just got probably the worst beating of my life.  She said, “oh, were you the guy on the blue board?!”  Yep.

Fun day.  I need redemption.  Maybe in a few years….work in progress.

Ps, i left a bootie behind in Westport.  Probably at Rock Gardens parking or at the Jetty shitters.  Size 11 Xcel.  Brand new.  Faaaak!

Careful: VIDEO IS LOUD!!!!!!

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