There are lot of factors involved with predicting surf conditions. Swell, wind and tide all play a role. Some spots will break on a given set of conditions and another spot a short distance away will not.
Generally the bigger the difference between the size of the swell and the interval of the swell means cleaner, more powerful waves. For example a 6 foot 15 sec swell would typically be better than a 6 foot 8 second swell. The Northwest has spots that break on every swell direction–some better than others.
Wind can play a big part in how clean the swell is and the shape of the waves. Onshore winds usually smash down the waves and make them crumbily. Offshore winds can scoop up the waves and shape them better. The direction of the wind can make a big difference in the wave conditions too. Depending on the orientation of the beach one spot could have offshore winds while another spot close by might have more of an onshore wind direction.
The influence of the tide at certain spots can literally turn the waves off in a matter of minutes. Some spots are so tide dependent that they’ll work for a while and when the tide switches–flat. Typically most spots break better on an incoming tide. Another major influence is the change from incoming to outgoing tide. Some places break better on a big tide swing, some don’t.
What it really comes down to is each spot is unique. They all break different–different swells, different winds and different tides. You have spend the time to figure out how each spot works.
Now that i re-read this i realized that this is probably completely useless to someone who didn’t already know this stuff. Good luck!
Entries (RSS)
June 25th, 2008 at 10:28 am
I didn’t already know. And I still don’t care.
SURF’S ALWAYS UP ON THE NET BLUD!
June 26th, 2008 at 8:39 am
dooooood, that shoulder high peeler in the 3rd pic looks so fun. i can’t wait for my new PK - greenline model to get done…and of course for my shoulder and wrist to heal up so i can actually paddle.
June 26th, 2008 at 9:52 am
Stop commercializing NW surf! It’s extremely disappointing to see you all try to capitalize on this. I love it out there too, but no need to give out vital info to anyone who hasnt put in the time, built out spreadsheets & tracked it over the years.
This is not a dead giveway at all, but I really fear part two will only make it worse.
Sell boards & gear, not our playground for search engines to give you good rank and make ya’ll dinero
Sam-O
June 26th, 2008 at 12:35 pm
Sam O: do you know Matthew McConaughey?
June 26th, 2008 at 1:14 pm
Spreadsheets?
June 26th, 2008 at 2:08 pm
If you’re really worried about the commercialization of NW surfing you’re probably wasting your time here. And by your definition, coming here you’re supporting that commercialization. Woops!
There’s a lot bigger fish out there you might want to waste your time whining about the commercialization of NW surf to. Examples include: the 10 or so global surf websites out there that cover the NW, surf shops, surfing mags, shapers, girls and Indians.
You could also go after Google Earth.
June 26th, 2008 at 6:37 pm
no offense to Drex, but the “how to read swell” post seems to read like a dr. suess guide to surfing. I have no idea how somebody could read into it….somehow commercializing Nw surf. They are basic guidlines that most people that enjoy surfing probably already know. Lighten up Sam-O, have fun surfing, wait until someone gives up some specific details to get your panties in a bunch.
and yeah……
spreadsheets?
June 27th, 2008 at 7:53 am
I see your side of it too. The major websites such as wanna, etc suck and it sucks to see google earth images blasted all over now with gps coordinates, but I was really more concerned with what you’ll say in part two.
Either way, fuck it. I like your site, I just put $1000’s of dollars in gas to figure it out & I don’t want everyone one else to be just given all the answers
Yeah, spreadsheets. A bit crazy, but it helped. Desk jobs….you find time for these kind of things….
June 27th, 2008 at 8:04 am
dude spreadsheets? Hows that workin for you. You must have this place completely wired, what a knob. no ones getting rich here pal except for oil companies because we have to drive so damn much.
June 27th, 2008 at 10:25 am
THIS JUST IN: CLEM CALLS OUT SDREX FOR NOT WRITING SWELL!
Fuuuuuck datta bold move homey…he gonna bludgeon your face to horblivion AKA melee attack your n00b shit back to level 3 holmz what are you thinking???
PS DREX BE SPREADING HIS SHEET ALL WEEK LONG AKA GAY PRIDE AKA RIDE COXXX NOT BOARDS WHAT AN IDIOT
June 27th, 2008 at 12:42 pm
not at all, I can’t write for shit…..definitely not competing with the heavy hitters on broweather or opera. I’m just saying….it was some seriously non-specific information about surfing in Washington. Sam dood needs to chill…..that’s all i’m sayin’
bow down to the Duke, I wouldn’t even think to try to out-blog the blog masters. You guys are pro.
June 27th, 2008 at 4:09 pm
dude drex don’t you have a deal in the mix to report on komo right after steve pool lighten up frances all part duece was gona be was some more mumbo you should really be worring about your cfp with all that gas you burnt lookin for the green room
June 28th, 2008 at 9:16 am
MAN ON THE (spredd)SHEET!
REPORTING TO YOU LIVE FROM HIS BEDROOM: “HEY, YOU WANNA SEE MY SURFBOARDS?”
LOLOLOLOL WHAT A HORB
BOYCOTT BROWEATHER AKA EXXXON
MORE COFFEE PLEASE
June 28th, 2008 at 11:15 am
http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/outdoors/2008016448_nwwsurflapush26.html
LOL
TIMELY!
June 28th, 2008 at 4:04 pm
too funny squabbling over a pile of shit. NW sucks, this site might cause a snowboarder to buy a wetsuit and board and drive out 2-3 times before getting over it. if you don;t get over it, you move. if you’re a long time Wa local, you have bigger problems then this site
June 29th, 2008 at 12:00 am
Grammar aside, this hatr mofo makes a bunch of sense… Sorry. The Truth is hard to ignore…
REAL_TALK latenite!
June 30th, 2008 at 1:47 pm
I got loads of T-shirts idea for you, how about “If It Swells, Ride It”
June 30th, 2008 at 9:11 pm
bought a hot dog stand
selling dogs out on the res
making gobs of cash
got good and depressed
selling dogs out on the res
not good after all
Thanks for the lesson
Now I know a few good things
not to sell hot dogs
what the hell do these
Haiku’s really have to do
with any damn thing
Sam -o you inspired
me to go write some haikus
but they fucking suck
hope you learned a lot
hope you learned a lot from this
hope you learned a lot
July 7th, 2008 at 3:57 pm
Peelers trys to teach me all that swell stuff and I usually just drift off and tell him his mom gives me swell, then he says “f you sman” and that ends the conversation