Surfed OShores last Saturday 10/13 with the Mega Crew: Clem, Ki, Kev, Otter, Petersen, JR, Bryan and Shawn. Buoy was reporting something like a 8′, 12 sec swell out of the WSW. Got to the spot at about 9; sun came out, clean, big, big waves.
1st attempt on the paddle out, powered through the inside and made it to the line up somehow. brutal. before i was able to catch anything i was ducking a wave, got picked up, pushed down and held under for a bit–had to grab the leash to get to the surface. that’s always a little lame. but not as lame as surfacing and seeing your board broken in fucking half!
yeah, somehow my board broke. i have no idea how it happened. i was far enough outside that it couldn’t have hit the bottom. i didn’t hit it when i got held down. i can only imagine a wave dumped on it at the surface when i was under. so lame–1st time i broke a surfboard! i got the board about a month ago. rode it in Costa and 3 weekends after–that’s it.
Mega Crew was cracking up when i rolled up with my two surfboard pieces. Ki let me borrow his South Coast and i got right back in. Paddled out next to the jetty in the rip. made it to the outside pretty easily…..waves out there were huge! HUGE! check out ki’s pics. Caught a few waves but mostly just paddled and got hammered on.
Super fun day with a rad crew of doods. Had the place to ourselves. I’d take a mediocre day at OShores with just my friends and i in the water than a sic day at Westport with 100 of your friends.
Word.
be sure to check out Ki’s pics….sic shots.
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Last Friday was Ultimate. Let me explain:
Otter and I took the day off (10/5) and set off for a Strait surf mission. Missed the 1st ferry but managed to get to PA by 9am. Rolled out to the Elwha…low tide, small. Hung out for about 15 mins and watched the waves pick up. Decided to go suit up…by the time we walked back out to the river mouth, it was working. Stoked! Surfed for about 2 hours with Lib Tech. One guy blatantly dropped in on me…ruthless. Lib Tech makes sic boards though so it’s okay. Sic session, sunny, warm air, clean chest to head high waves.
After the Elwha, we ate in PA and decided to b-line it out to the Wedge. Hour and a half later we got the the lookout but couldn’t see the beach…shit was completely fogged in. We could hear waves though. Figured, we drove all this way, might as well hike down. By the time we hiked through the swamp and made it down to the beach it had cleared up and the sun came out. Sic! Damn that beach is beautiful. Maybe the best beach in WA.
Tide was going down but there was still some waves coming in. Waist to the occasional chest high set…surfed right on the wedgey wave. super fun, warm, crystal clear water…could see my shadow on the bottom of the ocean….no one ‘cept Otter and myself out there too. Had every wave to myself…bunch of good long rides.
On the way back home we stopped at 7 Cedars and blew a bunch of cash on craps. i think we were in that Casino for about 1/2 hour. in/out/lose cash. Made the ferry only cause it was delayed. Good thing cause we would’a missed the Hump show. Hump scarred me for life but most of it was entertaining.Managed to catch the last 5 or 6 songs of the Blakes show at the Croc. Got in free too. Those guys are rad live…check em out if you get a chance. Closed down the Whiskey Bar..manged to get a buzz and not pass out. We were awake for about 20 hours, 4 hours of surfing, 5 hours of driving. I slept really good that night.
So the Ultimate Friday recap: all time surf, craps, Hump, The Blakes for free, Whiskey Bar, sleep.
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